Being able to maintain a low level of phosphates and nitrates is an important aspect of successful fish keeping. The following article will show you how to build a filter that has the capacity to establish a totally aerobic nitrogen cycle in 24h (instead of 28 days) and removing phosphates and nitrates in both fresh and saltwater aquarium. When setup properly, this filter is able to hold them down to close to zero.
PART 1: SET UP
1.1 Calculate the TOTAL AMOUNT of gallons your new tank can hold without anything in it.
1.2. Now calculate how much Tri Base Pelletized Carbon you need. Here is the math: 0.1667 lbs x Gallons
*If your tank is going to be a reef tank with no fish: corals need only 1/3 the amount of TBPC if it is an all coral tank.
*If your tank is reef tank mix with small amount of fish: you'll need only 1/2 the amount of TBPC.
*If it is a fish only tank, then you need the full amount of carbon.
Remember, when usd as a bacteria bed, this carbon only needs to be replaced once every four years.
Let Tri Base Pelletized Carbon soak in a water bucket with an air pump for about two days. Once this is done, add it to your filter. Do not add it all at once: the best to do this is to add 1/4 to the canister every day. For freshwater tank with live plants, do not use Tri Base Pelletized Carbon. It will remove everything your plants need to survive. Use Earth Pellets instead.
1.3 The Canister:
For best results, Tri Base Pelletized Carbon should be used in a canister. This way, all the water will be in contact with the carbon.
One pound of Tri Base Pelletized Carbon fills a 1L volume.
For a small tank, any filter could do (aquaclear, fluval filter, etc.) but for large tank, the only canisters we found to carry the amount of carbon needed is the RED TORPEDO.
The Red Torpedo: This canister is nothing more than durable and lightweight filter tank designed specifically to maximize media load with no internal restrictions and pressure tested to 150 PSI.
1.4 Water Flow:
Water flow is the water returning to your tank after it has passed through your filters. There is just one easy thing to remember here: IT MUST BE TEN (10) AN HOUR.
1.5 The Return Pipe:
This is very important! In all systems (except for those in an aquarium with plants), the return pipe MUST be about two inches ABOVE the water surface. It MUST shoot from the rear to the front, and be cross corner. If you DON'T do this, you will have a very hard time with your pH and the Dissolved Oxygen levels in your tank. Water should be taken from the bottom of the tank.
1.6 Water temperature:
The water temperature should be around 78 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In the tropics the water temperature is usually between 84 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit in many places. For a salt water tank, density (no, it is not really called salinity) should be between 1.020 to 1.025. At the lower density there is less disease and the water can carry more oxygen.
1.7 Water Changes and Cleaning:
This system will keep your water clean and will reduce No3 and Po4. This is not an excuse for you to stop changing the water. You can change a smaller volume and save on water and/or salt but don't skip that very important maintenance routine. Your Red Torpedo or filter should be cleaned (actually it is the carbon inside that need to be cleaned) once a month. All you have to do is to back flush. Back flush for 10 to 15 seconds ONLY. Otherwise your bacteria bed will be carried away in the waste water. Back flushing does not mean to back flush water back into the tank!
1.8 The Bacteria:
Right Now Bacteria is the master-piece of that system. It has nothing in common with all those bacteria starters you see on the market. Right Now Bacteria will establish on your Tri Base Pelletized Carbon or Earth Pellets and will grow at a phenomenal rate. Within only a few hours it will have enough bacteria to cycle your tank AEROBICALY. It will consume waste like nothing you've ever seen and it remains in your system. Actually, you only need to use the bacteria once, but if you want (and this is what I do), you can add a few every month after water change to boost the system a little. If you do this, help yourself and get a pound of it instead of small quantity every time (you'll save money this way).
PART 2: TRULY BULLET-PROOF 24 HOURS AEROBIC NITROGEN CYCLE IN A NEW TANKS
2.1 SET UP THE TANK AS NOTED ABOVE
2.2 ACCLIMATISE YOUR FISH:
Acclimatise your fish by using an air line with a plastic valve. Drip water from the air line into a small plastic bucket. Start slowly at first, and after an hour and a half, increase the flow. Keep putting the water into the tank as the bucket fills up.
2.3 FIVE MINUTES BEFORE YOU PUT THE FISH IN THE TANK:
Add the Right Now Bacteria to the tank five minutes before you put the fish in the tank. DO NOT ADD THE BACTERIA BEFORE THAT!
2.4 THE FIRST 24 HOURS:
During the first 24 hours, the tank may cloud up. But by the next day, you will have the entire TOTALLY AEROBIC NITROGEN and PHOSPHORUS CYCLE!
2.5 FOR SALTWATER TANK ONLY:
If you have live rock, you can simply add the Right Now Bacteria when you add the live rock in the tank. You do not need the Tri Base Pelletized Carbon. Even if you do not use the Tri Base Pelletized Carbon, Right Now Bacteria will protect your fish from the deadly ammonium and Nitrite spike, and will cycle your tank in 24 hours. You will now have No3 and Po4 reduction without Tri Base Pelletized Carbon.
For all tanks: Without Tri Base Pelletized Carbon you will NOT have continual Aerobic nitrate or phosphate reduction, or will have it only to a lesser degree.
PART 3: OLD TANKS INSTALLATION
3.1 SET UP:
Set your system as noted above. Once again, do not add all Tri Base Pelletized Carbon at once (it could kill your fish)!
3.2 RIGHT NOW BACTERIA:
Add Right Now Bacteria.
This is it! Simply remember that all those steps are important.
Article written by Patrice Lapointe
For more information about this system and where to find the equipment needed, visit Mad Captain's Aquarium
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Patrice_Lapointe
By Patrice Lapointe
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